(Melina Mara/The Washington Post)
Fried chicken and bread at Maketto
Never before has D.C. had so many diverse options for juicy, crispy fried chicken, but based on the size of this Taiwanese fried chicken platter, you might think Erik Bruner-Yang is serving ostrich. The large-format dish can easily feed three. Take a bite and your first impression might be the dish’s sweetness, but hold tight: It won’t be long before you feel the unmistakable numbing spice of Sichuan peppercorns. It’s served atop slices of French bread to sop up the sauce, which gives it a chicken-and-waffles vibe.
Maketto, 1351 H St. NE. 202-838-9972. www.maketto1351.com. $26.
Gougères at Garrison
These bite-size cheese puffs constitute a bread basket worth both the cash and the calorie splurge at chef Rob Weland’s Barracks Row restaurant. The baked-to-order gougères are tender, light and airy, with a bit of crunch from the dustings of poppy seeds and flaky salt that adorn them. Restrain yourself from eating all dozen at once, because they make an ideal vehicle for scooping up every last bit of sauce and vegetables from the rest of your meal.
Garrison, 524 Eighth St. SE. 202-506-2445. garrisondc.com. $8.
Wonton soup at the Source
We’re pretty sure this will be the most expensive bowl of wonton soup you’ve ever had, but it probably will also be the best. Determined to upgrade the watery broth of the Chinese American staple, the Source executive chef Scott Drewno has created a 20-hour “triple stock,” which is built in layers with chicken, pork and beef. Rich in color and flavor, it’s poured tableside over a hearty array of egg noodles, cilantro, scallions, roast pork, shrimp and pork dumplings and a tea-and-soy-sauce-poached egg. And, yes, given the price, it’s enough for two to share.
The Source, 575 Pennsylvania Ave. NW. 202-637-6100. wolfgangpuck.com. $16.
Torchon of white mushroom at Kinship
Leave it to chef Eric Ziebold to substitute mushrooms for foie gras in a classic French dish, without us even missing the fatty liver. His torchon feels and tastes just as decadent, thanks to a generous amount of butter pureed into the mix that also includes caramelized garlic and onions. Served in a round along with house-made brioche, celery root and mushroom salad and huckleberry gastrique, this dish has earned its way to bestseller, and long-term, status.
Kinship, 1015 Seventh St. NW. 202-737-7700. kinshipdc.com. $14.
Fried chicken ‘coq au vin’ at Convivial
French native turned American citizen Cedric Maupillier has merged the best of both countries in his fried chicken “coq au vin.” It’s one of the stars of his menu at the buzzy Convivial in Shaw, the first restaurant where the chef can call himself majority owner. Based on a traditionally long-braised dish but inspired by Korean fried chicken, the poultry here is double-fried for a super-crispy crust. Along with mushrooms, shallots, garlic, potatoes and bacon, it’s covered in a reduced-wine glaze that allows the chicken to maintain its signature crunch.
Convivial, 801 O St. NW. 202-525-2870. convivialdc.com. $18.
Shafout at Marib
If it’s your first time at the Yemeni restaurant Marib, don’t miss the shafout, a chilled appetizer with layers of buttermilk, chopped almonds and walnuts, spring onion greens, mint leaves and lahoh, a spongy flatbread similar in texture to Ethiopian injera. The combination of flavors is incredibly rich and refreshing at the same time, and just the thing we crave on a muggy summer day.
Marib Restaurant, 6981 Hechinger Dr., Springfield. 703-376-3388. maribrestaurant.com. $8.95.
The Pimiento at Cheesetique
Pressed to ooey gooey perfection between slices of sourdough in a panini grill, the Pimiento features owner Jill Erber’s riff on the classic Southern pimento cheese spread (also available to go in the shop), with the namesake peppers, mayo and a mixture of coarsely grated cheese, including a spicy habanero for extra heat. Jazz it up with chicken or bacon if you must, but why mess with perfection? The Pimiento has been on the menu since Cheesetique opened 12 years ago, and its legions of fans should rest well knowing Erber has no plans to remove it, calling the sandwich “one of our classics that we could never take away.”
Cheesetique, 2411 Mt. Vernon Ave., Alexandria. 703-706-5300. 4056 Campbell Ave., Arlington. 703-933-8787. 800 N. Glebe Rd., Arlington. 703-566-9189. cheesetique.com. $11.
Lamb ribs at Tail Up Goat
Let your inner Flintstone out as you attack the pile of lamb ribs at Tail Up Goat. Chef Jon Sybert uses the less-well-known Denver cut of the ribs, which are slow-cooked to fat-rendering tenderness for about four hours before they’re rubbed in a spice blend, grilled and served with sumac onions and such seasonal garnishes as fresh fava beans and preserved lemon. The dish, which serves two or more, has proved “much more popular than we thought it would be,” Sybert said. Meaning: It’s a keeper.
Tail Up Goat, 1827 Adams Mill Rd. NW. 202-986-9600. tailupgoat.com. $44.
Peking duck at China Wok
Before you take a single bite of the signature Peking duck at China Wok, you get to enjoy a show. Wang Wen Fang, the elegant 85-year-old chef behind the double-cooked Long Island duck, will roll his cart into position and proceed to put on a master knife-skills class, methodically breaking down the bird into legs, thighs, breast meat and skin. Once his performance is finished, you’ll have the honor of rolling up skin and flesh in a steaming homemade pancake slathered with a wine-infused hoisin sauce and garnished with aromatic strips of green onion. You’ll marvel at the man, his duck and your good fortune to experience both.
China Wok, 8395 Leesburg Pike, Vienna. 703-893-4488. $34.95 for a whole duck; $17.95 for half.
The Sofie at Buredo
Two things inevitably will happen when you order a Sofie at Buredo: One, the seaweed wrapper for your sushi burrito will not hold, spilling its densely packed filling onto your table or, more likely, yourself. Second, you will hunt down every Sriracha mayo-slathered morsel of tempura shrimp, avocado, pickled cabbage and carrot to make sure nothing gets left behind. This sushi log may have structural weaknesses, but its flavors are expertly engineered to balance crunch and creaminess, sweetness and spice. Think of it as the futomaki version of the five-napkin burger and embrace the messiness.
Buredo, 825 14th St. NW. 202-670-6770. eatburedo.com. $11.75.
